Cimiez, the posh(est) part of Nice, looks down with snooty hauteur on the rest of the city. Its apartment blocks, called things like The Majestic, cast a disapproving eye over the shabby streets surrounding the railway station. Not really the sort of place you’d expect to find the graves of two of the great Fauve painters, Raoul Dufy and Henri Matisse. But there they are, up on top of the hill, behind the monastery, lording it over the big nobs.

At first sight, it seems like the two of them are rather crammed into a tiny little space, but the impression is deceptive; the cemetery is arranged on several levels across the hillside, and you have to walk to the furthest right-hand edge to find Dufy’s tomb, a rather disappointing affair: the view from the hillside is far more spectacular than the gravestone. The main part of the cemetery is definitely worth an extended stroll, with some beautiful marble chapels standing out against the magnificent backdrop.

Matisse is at the other end, as far left as you can go. In fact you leave the cemetery itself and descend a small flight of steps, and there he and his wife Amélie have a memorial garden all to themselves. Again the tomb is nothing special, but some tourists have scattered bits of rubble over the surface, along with several roses, messages scribbled on scraps of notepaper, and bits of foliage torn off the neighbouring bushes. It’s a rather tawdry gesture: I had an urge to sweep the lot off. But then that’s the price of having a grave that is so well signposted. Dufy doesn’t even have a twig on his.